Category Archives: Europe

Lisbon wanderings…

As soon as we arrive in Lisbon, the city of the seven hills and capital of Portugal, we dump our bags in our hotel room and head out to explore the city’s ancient Arab district…

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lisbon-tiles-1In Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest quarter, we lose ourselves in tangle of cobblestone alleys and narrow streets, where a vibrant energy gives you light feet while the breath of the past brushes your neck.

At every turn, there is something to surprise and delight.

In picture-postcard alleys, colourful tiled and sometimes crumbling buildings huddle together – and steep stairs beckon you up and around another corner.

There is street art and tile art and sculptures and galleries, and small shops selling kitsch and classy souvenirs, fashion, homewares and groceries.

lisbon-night-walk-in-old-townNearby there are 17th-century churches and an impressive cathedral – and up on the hill there are views to take your breath away.

At dusk, the old quarter comes alive.

Cafés and restaurants serve delicious traditional and international food and fabulous Portuguese wine and beer, while the sound of Fado music drifts out into the street.

There is so much more to this beautiful city, but for now here’s a glimpse of the old quarter…

 

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I wandered lonely as a cow…

2016-09-11-21-34-03I’m sure that would have been the original version of Wordsworth’s poem – especially if he’d written it in Switzerland.

On our way back down from the stunning Mt Titlis, we jumped off the cablecar at the mountain lake of Trübsee to walk the rest of the way back down to Engelbert (and yes, downhill walking is weirdly harder on the legs and knees than going uphill).

Along the way, the cow-studded hills were literally alive with the sound of … cowbells.

Whether they’re walking or grazing, chewing their cuds or flicking off flies, those bells are full-on ding-dang-dong.

It probably sends them a tiny bit mad, but it’s certainly music to our ears as we make our way down the mountain. Just a brilliant way to spend a few hours in Switzerland…

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View from Mt Titlis

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The path begins winding around the lake at Trübsee

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A perfect place to walk…


Switzerland: we are here

 

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Street view at Interlaken…

From urban edgy to outdoor rec heaven, from the steamy heat and energy of a city jammed with people to the crisp alpine air of a town nestled between two lakes – flying from Tokyo to Zurich and jumping on a train to Interlaken in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland feels like intergalactic travel…

Yet both Japan and Switzerland have much in common, including their love of sticking to the rules, their stunning scenery, their strong connection to culture – and how they seem to come alive at night.

Copyright: Louise Creely

Switzerland is definitely a walking culture!

In the evening in the village of Interlaken, everyone is out promenading, eating, drinking, chatting and lapping up the long days before winter sets in.

And when the sun comes up, out they come in their walking gear, with their hiking poles and backpacks…

On our first day here, we join them on Europe’s highest train ride. Along the way, some jump off to walk between alpine villages.

But we’re going all the way – through tunnels chiselled in the mountains, on a railway that is an impressive feat of engineering, up to Jungfraujoch… 3454 metres above sea level.

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While I’m busy taking photos, EB is powering up the slope…

Here the scenery is epic – but there’s no time to get comfortable. EB has spotted a snowy trail disappearing off in the distance.

So off we go, slipping and sliding in the snow. Apparently there’s a café up there somewhere, but it’s way out of sight right now.

This reminds me of our trek in Nepal where the sherpas would smile and say ‘bistaarai, bistaarai’ (slowly, slowly).

With the altitude affecting us a little, we’re taking that advice here… and we definitely lap up the beer and soup in the café that really is there (that’s what I love about Switzerland – you can get food just about anywhere).

As we head back down the slippery slope towards the impressive station at the top of Europe, it’s hard to believe that just a couple of days ago we were bathed in sweat as we walked the streets of Tokyo – and that two countries we never had on our bucket list have managed to capture our hearts.

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Five great reasons to visit Portugal

MP900305799I’ve wanted to go to Portugal for such a long time – and it’s finally happening! Why Portugal? I thought you’d never ask!

Here’s five great reasons to visit Portugal:

  1. Lisbon – a city that is truly vintage Europe, with all the traditions and gorgeousness without the hype.
  2. Feasts – naturally it varies from region to region, but there are national obsessions like bacalhau (salted cod) and cozido à portuguesa (stew), and other gourmet delights matched with perfect Portuguese wine, mmmmm.
  3. Pilgrim’s trail – the Camino Portugué is a more rural take on the traditional pilgrim’s trail in Spain… passing through lush forests, terraced fields, vineyards and sleepy villages (sounds perfect to me!).
  4. Porto – the home of port of course. Add cruising on the Douro with some port tastings along the way, and strolling through the maze of steep, narrow cobbled streets. Perfection right there.
  5. Beachy bliss – the Algarve region is a favourite coastal hangout for locals and tourists. With year-round sun and gorgeous temperatures, a stunning coastline and all the culture of Portugal, it’s a no brainer we’ll be spending some time there – and coming back to cycle it sometime soon!

But my favourite part is that Portugal is fresh – off the beaten tourist trail and the perfect place to hang out as part of our very compressed ‘golden gap year’ from September to mid-November. Bring it on…

 


Postcard from the Dolomites

Copyright: Louise Creely

Legends of the mountain. Apparently.

If you’re going to learn to ski, you may as well start at the top. In the fabulous Italian Dolomites, that is.

EB had never been on the slopes before (ones with snow on them anyway) so back in 2000 we took our first ski trip together – to La Villa in the valley of Alta Badia.

We went with Skiare Ski Tours and it was the best decision we made. Thomas, who owns and operates Skiare with wife Debbie, easily spotted us Aussies at the airport.

The clue: I wasn’t wearing stilettos and skin tight jeans for the flight, he said.

By the time we’d been skiing for six days under the expert instruction of Thomas, Macca and others, we were carving up the slopes… and sometimes spectacularly crashing out, usually when attempting jumps (more like bumps actually).

On our last day there, we even took on a black run. With plenty of enthusiasm and sub-zero style of course.

The following year I managed to pop my ACL in New Zealand, and haven’t been back on the slopes since.

But my sista and bro-in-law are skiing at Silver Star Mountain in Canada right now, so the itch is starting up again.

Ah yes, the call of the Dolomites (and delicious prune schnapps) is getting louder…

View from room at Gran Risa

A room with a view… at the Gran Risa, in the gorgeous village of La Villa.

Gondola at back door

…with the gondola to the ski slopes right at the back door. (Hard to take, I know)

World Cup black run behind hotel

…and a perfect view of the World Cup black run from our hotel window. Chilled bliss right there.

 


Five for Friday… travel tips

Copyright: Louise Ralph

EB hanging around in Halong Bay, Vietnam

Who doesn’t love Fridays? As the work day winds down, everything seems possible and that delicious sound of your computer trilling its way to ‘off’ – well, it’s the call of the wild, isn’t it?

Speaking of wild, here are our ‘five for Friday’ travel tips – the things we love to do and definitely want to do more of when we get away…

  1. Be flexible – it seems easier to have everything booked, but what you pick up in security and certainty, you can lose in fresh perspectives – like being taken for a ride (literally) and picking up some brilliant and slightly weird travel memories in Ho Chi Minh city or getting lost and eating at a back-street trattoria owned by two elderly (and fiesty) sisters. And, of course, certainty isn’t always guaranteed even when you pre-book – like a friend who booked a hotel online only to discover, on arrival, that it was closed for renovation (aka indefinitely)
  2. Be flâneurs  – and hit the streets when you arrive (so make sure you’re fit enough to do it before you go). It’s definitely the best way to see places, meet people, get lost and find yourself…

    Copyright: Louise Ralph

    There’s nothing shy about these kids on the streets of Sapa… priceless

  3. Immerse yourself – there’s nothing wrong with getting a taste test of countries, but it’s so much better to base yourself somewhere for a week or more and really immerse yourself in the culture. After ten days in Sarlat-la-Canéda in France, we were on nodding (and sometimes hugging) terms with the locals, which just goes to show that a smile and a laugh is the universal language
  4. Book into apartments – when you’re travelling for longer than a couple of weeks, you really get tired of eating out (no matter how fabulous the food is!). Being able to make your own breakfast or buy local produce to whip up a fabulous dinner is just bliss. It makes you feel at home in the world…
  5. Say YES – because travelling isn’t all happy snaps. It’s a human drive to seek safety (and avoid feeling anxious, uncertain, uncomfortable, scared). It’s easier to stick to the tourist spots when you could go slightly off-piste and discover amazing places and people. Easier to drive when you could cycle or paddle or walk. Easier to take a cruise than experiment with indi-travel. But, now that you’ve said yes to travel, why not embrace the strange encounters and breathtaking experiences along the way…

Happy travels…

Copyright: Louise Ralph


Everything is possible: holiday resolutions

You know the drill. You’re on holidays and the stress has melted away, leaving you feeling like anything is possible.

You’ll get back home and do those things you’ve been putting off forever.

You’ll change your life, or at least your attitude to it.

You won’t be sucked back into the stress zone. And those end of the day ‘power wine-downs’ will be a thing of the past.

You can almost hear your liver whispering ‘thank you’.

Yep, anything is possible.

Fast forward a few weeks and it’s easy to forget you’ve ever been away. The relentless pace of life sucks you in – and under.

Almost.

The other day, I found myself grabbing lunch and taking it back to my desk. I stopped mid-stride.

‘I reckon you wouldn’t find a single French person eating lunch at their desk,’ I thought.

And I went back outside to find a place in the sun…

My friend posted this Seth Godin quote on faffbook recently, and it’s worth repeating (even if we are planning our next getaway!):

Maybe it’s not about big changes and Humpty-Dumpty resolutions. Maybe hanging onto that ‘holiday spirit’ is about the little things that build momentum in your life and eventually add up to the way you live.

And where you eat lunch.

 


Getting into the Singapore swing…

Copyright: Louise Ralph

We’ve been hanging out in Singapore for the past few days. EB finds the humidity energizing. Moi? I’m suffering from serious France-lag.

Even my mobile kept French time for two days. Perhaps that’s why they call it a smart phone.

As always, we hit the streets on day one – stepping out into 33-degree heat, complete with 90 percent humidity. Joy.

One local just laughs at us and shakes his head. “Nobody walk in Singapore. Everyone take bus or taxi,” he says.

I wish. I already feel like I’ve run a marathon. Unfortunately, I look like it too. Wringing wet and half dead.

Which makes it hard to blend in along Orchard Road, Singapore’s posh shop-til-you-drop strip. The only person about to drop is me – and I haven’t even started shopping.

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Flood levels in Singapore get that high?
No, it’s just Marina Bay Sands, a humble casino resort…

But what do the locals think of their city? “Singapore is fine city,” one lady says.

This isn’t a quirk of language. She’s not the first – or the last – to tell us about how highly regulated life is in Singapore.

There are fines for littering, fines for not emptying the overflow from pot-plant trays, fines and loss of taxi-licenses for drivers ripping people off, fines and jail terms for handbag snatching and other petty crime, a complicated car-ownership permit system, and more. You can even get the cane here, and not just at school.

The pot-plant thing? That’s about making sure mosquitoes can’t breed. It’s part of a vigilant program to stop dengue fever (check out the NEA ad).

All these strict laws may be annoying to live with, but they’re designed to create a litter and crime-free tropical city that’s healthy and safe for tourists and residents, with maximum green spaces and minimum pollution – especially car emissions.

And it works. It’s the safest, cleanest, most relaxing Asian city we’ve been in so far.

It’s also one the most environmentally-responsible and innovative cities in the world.

For us, it’s been a pleasant surprise and we’ve had a great time exploring the city.

Not always on foot. EB relented and we did eventually take taxis and buses – sometimes.

Coming soon! Some of our favourite places in Singapore. Until then, here’s a trip down memory lane – by bike.

This reminds me of how I felt on the last downhill run into Tournus. Nice.

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Memories of cycling in Burgundy – a bronze in Singapore’s Botanical Gardens


Au revoir, merci France

Copyright: Louise RalphWhen we first arrived in France, I had no idea what to expect – just that I’d wanted to come here for a very long time.

I also knew the six weeks would be gone in a blink… and it has.

There have been challenges, bien sur.

Like trying to communicate with our limited grasp of the language, adjusting to those rich late-night dinners, and finding our way around France with the ever-petulant Sylvia the GPS and those sometimes-dodgy cycling directions…

But the one facing us now, after our quick stopover in Singapore, is much more scary.

Going home and stepping back into… [cue spooky music] …the Stress Zone.

We know the moment our feet get under the desk, our life will be frantic. But does it have to be?

Our quest – which may take superhuman powers – is to hold onto a little of that fabulous French attitude to life.

Like working to live, not the other way around. And taking timeout – because you don’t always have to be open, or available 24/7, or busting your way through the in-tray.

Meanwhile, we have some time to wander the streets of Tournus before our fast train to the airport. Mais oui, the streets are all but deserted. Only the boulangerie and one bar-cafe in the centre ville is openIt’s Monday, after all.

And even if that doesn’t always suit us tourists, it works for the French. And that’s the point, really.

So we’ve popped some of that approach into our bags. Now we’ve just gotta get it through customs…and home.

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Serenity, French-style, in Tournus…

Au revoir, France. A bientot.


Off piste – from Cluny to Tournus

Copyright: Louise Ralph

“Ooo, a castle,” said the goldfish

Day 4 and a local tells us: “Vous êtes chanceux. Il fait beau”. You’re lucky. It’s good weather.

Apparently it’s usually much colder this time of year.

Vraisment? Rain threatens all day and the clouds don’t part for an instant.

The wind is bitter, but a welcome friend when it’s at our backs going up those pesky hills.

There are lots of them today – especially when we peddle up 3km, only to find we’ve gone the wrong way.

Gotta love those vague directions…

Then EB’s gears throw a tanty, and we stop to fix them. Tick, tick, tick…

We glance at a chateau, but we’re way behind time.

Clearly, the bike-hire peeps don’t think lights are important, so we’re cycling on major thoroughfares under gray skies. Not for the feint-hearted.

But, in the end, what’s not to like?

This is our last day in France, and we’re pedalling through vineyards and gorgeous little villages that are mostly deserted. It’s Sunday, after all.

As we crest the final hill, we are (again) gobsmacked at the view. Okay, my open mouth is actually gasping for air, but let’s not labour the point.

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Then it’s top gear and down the hill to Tournus – the last stop before we jump on one of those super-fast trains tomorrow.

The last four days of our trip will be spent in Singapore, before we are back to reality.

But for now, there’s that incredible view from our hotel window. And the obligatory five-course dinner…

Ah oui, je t’aime France.

Copyright: Louise Ralph

A room with a view…