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Five for Friday… places we’d rather be

Grassy Head near Yarrahapinni NSW

Grassy Head near Yarrahapinni NSW, Australia

It’s that time of year when the holidays are over, work’s in full swing, and you’re grappling with slipping resolutions.

EB and I have just made it through a ‘dry’ February – even celebrating our anniversary and moving house without the assistance of beer or bubbles.

And while our livers are no doubt eternally grateful, we’re feeling restless as that other ‘travel more’ resolution has our thoughts wandering off to places we’d rather be…

Here’s five of them, just for starters.

  1. Cinque Terre, Italy: The gorgeous villages of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore hugging the rugged coastline are top of the list for me, and kicking back to a slower pace (well, especially on those steep trails between villages) is simply irresistible…
  2. Lawn Hill Gorge in Outback Australia: Boodjamulla National Park has been on our must-do list for years. We’d love to be paddling through those ancient gorges right now, but the best time to visit is in the dry season from May to September – wildlife, indigenous art sites, emerald waters and serenity. Ah.
  3. Masai mara, Africa: I read Louise Southerden’s Memories or Mara (SMH, 23 February 2014) on Sunday and it gave me goosebumps – I love her writing style and now I really (really) want to go there.
  4. Croatia’s coastline: A Croatian friend swears it’s the most stunning coastline in the world and from the photos we’ve seen he’s not exaggerating. With 2,000km of coastline and 50 inhabited islands to choose from, The Guardian’s Reader’s tips look useful for picking where to be to lap it up (and not get swamped with tourists)
  5. Bourdeaux, France: A city surrounded by vineyards and delightful villages? Seems like the perfect place to hang out after our vino-free month – and because, of course, nous aimons France.

Well, that only made us feel more restless. What’s on your list of places you’d rather be? Happy (day-dreamy) Friday!


The pros and cons of cruising

Copyright: Fiona Craigie 2012

Cruising New Zealand. Photo: Fiona Craigie

Cruising has never been on my bucket list – unless it’s small ship adventure travel in the Arctic with Lindblad Expeditions.

But those big liners? No. Way.

I read the Poseiden Adventure when I was twelve and it scarred me for life.

The Titanic movie didn’t help. Neither did the Costa Concordia running aground and literally falling over off the coast of Isola del Giglio, Tuscany in 2012.

Mais oui, every time I read the travel section of any newspaper, there are super fabulous cruise deals… on almost every page. This weekend there were full- and half-page ads on 12 pages of the 16-page liftout.

With all those amazing deals floating around (and just to prove I’m not totally pigheaded about these things), I asked some very cool cruisers what they liked and didn’t like about their voyages.

Copyright: Fiona Craigie 2012

Cruising New Zealand. Photo: Fiona Craigie

The good stuff

The ‘unpack once’ thing got the biggest tick from everyone.

Jo liked the idea of visiting a lot of different places but still coming back to the same ‘home’ every night.

The next big tick was the food, which Fiona said was “too fabulous (depending on the cruise line you’re with)”.

The best bit, I’m told, is having the food, drink and entertainment included but being able to choose what, where and when you indulge.

Optional organized tours were another positive, especially when you know the ship won’t leave without you.

And of course, there’s that much needed downtime because you have nowhere else to rush off to – except possibly the bar or the blackjack table.

Other ticks go to the fact that everything is planned and looked after – a big one because a lot of us find the planning part so stressful, especially if you’re travelling with kids and need to keep them busy and interested!

Then there’s the safety and security aspects, and an onboard ‘hospital’ (which, as we’ll soon see, is a necessity not a luxury!).

The bad bits

Cyn found having to constantly talk to strangers a tough one. “And there are a LOT of them,” she said.

While it might seem obvious that a fair few people will fit on those floating cities, Jo pointed out that the rooms usually aren’t designed as spaces to hang out in so you are forced to go out and socialise, whether you want to or not.

Lots of people in close proximity create other problems. Like the possibility of being on a ship full of ‘screaming kids’ or people all 20 years older than you. Or the time it takes for the multitudes to disembark and embark in ports. And those dreaded gastric bugs that get around.

As if that’s not daunting enough, Jo says adjusting to the constant movement of the boat is difficult, as is getting your ‘land legs’ back afterwards.

Fiona found travelling between ports at night wasn’t great – especially in the Alaskan Inside Passage, where you miss all the great scenery.

“You also can’t stop in port for a few days, which you might do if you’re travelling independently,” she said.

So while cruising is an awesome (and these days more affordable) holiday choice for many people, I’m still not convinced I could be trapped on a ship for long periods of time – and I know EB definitely couldn’t.

Unless it involves exit strategies like kayaks and zodiacs – with plenty of wildlife (that’s one word, not two) to distract us. Just saying…

Copyright: Fiona Craigie 2012

A small floating city… Photo: Fiona Craigie


Where are you heading this year?

Copyright: Louise Ralph

It’s the cusp of a brand new year and one of those times you stop, between drinks, to wonder where this one will take you. Or will you take it – in two hands and squeeze every experience from it?

Here’s something Mark Twain said that all of us travellers (through the world or through life) can take along with us:

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

We’re up for it… maybe we’ll cross paths ‘at sea’. But first, some bubbles. Bonne année!

Copyright: Louise Ralph

At the Hobart docks (there are worse places to be anchored)


Five for Friday … fit for a traveller’s life

checklist2The silly season lists are getting ticked off. Santa’s about to get all the credit. You’re utterly exhausted – and you couldn’t fit another thing in.

But the new year looms, and I’ll bet you’re already getting swept up in that whole ‘resolutions list’ thing like I am. Even when I tell myself “not this year”.

Why do we consistently fail to do what’s on our list? Because we’re writing the WRONG lists.

Okay, it’s just a theory I came up with recently. But I’m so tired of writing lists I don’t stick to – like losing those extra kilos this year and getting super (try-athlete) fit and not letting life get in the way of… the list.

So here’s a new list for keeping healthy and fit wherever we are (or are going to) in the world:

  1. Be grateful: There’s nothing more energising than knowing you are blessed, even with the things we take for granted like wriggling our toes, shelter, sustenance, a breath, a thought, a heart beat…
  2. Re-sensitize: Battered as we are by constant stimuli, desensitizing has become our survival. Time to crank up those five gifts and lap up your life …. look, listen, smell, touch, taste (and enjoy!)
  3. Trip out: Travel every day, even if it’s only seeing ordinary things with new eyes
  4. Respect yourself: Love your body, whatever shape you’re in, and enjoy the passion of movement
  5. Indulge: In laughter, lots of it. Apart from giving your abs a workout, you’ll have more energy, less stress and a spring in your step.

Yes, EB is busy organising our cycling odyssey through Europe – and (loudly) delighting in my potential trip-specific training!

But whether it’s epic plans or minor moments, keeping fit and healthy so you’re ready to go anytime is important – because it slips, day by day and year by year, if we stop paying attention.

So let’s do the lists, but let’s do it right. It will make our new year resolutions so much more achievable.

Well, that’s my theory.

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More posts you might like:

The Upside of Failure

Pitch (Im)perfect

Bistaarai, bistaarai… slowly, slowly.


The Keepers of the Path

Saturday dawned hot and still in Brisbane. It may have been perfect beach weather, but we were staying in the city for silly season festivities with clients that night.

What’s the next best thing to surf and sand? A (very long, very hot) stroll in the bush of course.

So EB and I headed to Mt Coot-tha, where a network of trails crisscross the forest, up steep hills and into valleys, and it feels like you could walk forever and never find a way out (especially if you’re directionally-challenged like me!).

It’s a favourite place for intrepid travellers to train those walking legs for  their trekking adventures. We spent many challenging hours on these trails back in 2007 when we were preparing to walk the Annapurnas in Nepal.

the black dog

We couldn’t hit the trails without our black kelpie, who may be getting on in years but adores her bushwalks and doesn’t know how to give up (she gets it from EB, I’m sure!).

Let’s just say that when we arrived at the Simpson Falls after walking for a couple of hours, she dropped into a rock pool and wasn’t going anywhere…

But half an hour of water therapy does wonders and, with a little gentle persuasion (for me, not the dog), we were on our way again.

Soon we noticed that two crows were keeping an eye on us along the trail. They would perch in a tree to watch us pass, then their shadows would slide over us as they soared ahead to wait in another tree until we were a few metres past them, then they’d glide ahead of us again.

Occasionally, they’d koww koww and eh-aw to each other, as if chatting about these odd, dusty creatures below.

I vaguely recalled that crows were believed to be a bad omen, a warning of danger to come, shape-shifting creatures with evil intent, or vessels for restless spirits. And who hasn’t seen Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds, where a terrified young socialite is observed and harassed by flocks of the black menaces and other winged avengers?

But being shadowed by these two crows was strangely comforting. It was as if we were being guided by the Keepers of the Path.

Back to reality. Perhaps they were curious about our four-legged companion, glistening black like them, but with no ability to fly? Or were they just tagging along in case we stopped for a picnic and they could swoop down to snatch up the leftovers?

About eight kilometres later and no picnic stops, they were still hanging in there. They arrived with us back at the car – waiting, watching, and clearly unimpressed with our pathetic attempts to bid them farewell in crow language.

It may be a bit spooky for some, but I’m going with the other myth that says two crows mean joy.

Because there is definitely something joyful about the distraction of two crows, when you’re out walking in the midday sun, your feet are sore and what you really need is a stiff drink…


Five for Friday… well said

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Everyone smiles in the same language (Vietnam, 2006)

I’m always coming across clever or quirky words some wise or witty person has said – words that inspire me, make me think or make me laugh.

I scribble them down on bits of paper… and they promptly get sucked up in the vortex that is my office and my life.

After scrabbling around for a bit, I’ve found some of my favourite (travel) quotes.

Here’s five for Friday… just in time for the weekend.

 

  1. “I am not the same having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world.” (Mary Anne Radmacher)
  2. “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” (Mark Twain)
  3. “Personally I like going places where I don’t speak the language, don’t know anybody, don’t know my way around and don’t have any delusions that I’m in control. Disoriented, even frightened, I feel alive, awake in ways I never am at home.” (Michael Mewshaw)
  4. “It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” (Ernest Hemingway)
  5. “I haven’t been everywhere yet. But it’s on the list.” (unknown)
Copyright: Louise Ralph

Vietnam (2006)


Planning to wake up in a city that doesn’t sleep…

Manhattan Mid-town Skyline at NightIt was one of those moments when you think ‘why not?’ and instead of just thinking, you do it.

What began as a stopover on our way to cruising up the Inside Passage is now a dedicated two weeks in New York City next May.

It’s all a matter of time and funding (gotta watch those potentially grumpy bank managers). We could stay home and save for the longer trip. Or we could ditch the habit of planning epic journeys we never get around to taking…

Some people say two weeks in NYC is too long, some say it’s not long enough.

Finding out for ourselves is going to be half the fun…

Meanwhile, we’re going to have to stop singing ‘New York, NEW York’ at the top of our lungs or we’ll frighten the neighbours. And the wild turkeys – but that’s another story.


We will remember them…

Copyright: Louise RalphThey shall not grow old, as we that are left grow old;
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning
We will remember them.  
Laurence Binyon (1914)

We recently took an impromptu trip to Canberra, Australia’s capital city. While most other major Australian cities evolved higgledy-piggledy around ports, Canberra is a city by design.

Once endless paddocks, it was planned and designed by Walter Burley Griffin in collaboration with his wife Marion Mahony Griffin, also an architect.

One of Canberra’s drawcards is the fabulous wineries a short drive out of the city. But our first stop is the Australian War Memorial.

We will remember them…

During World War I, 60,000 Australian soldiers died. They were all volunteers. In a population of just four million, it was a war that touched every family and every town – and changed Australia forever.

What isn’t as well known is that, in the decade that followed, another 60,000 returned soldiers died from war-related illness, injury and post-traumatic stress.

Every year, at the eleventh hour on the eleventh day of the eleventh month all over Australia – on streets, in shopping centres, at businesses and schools, at train stations and airports – an eerie silence descends as we all stop where we are for one minute.

EB and I are sitting on Cabarita beach today and EB finds the Last Post on his phone. The haunting tones mingle with the crashing waves and the call of a lone seagull gliding past…

After our visit to the Australian War Memorial, the faces are fresh in our minds… of those who served and died in that terrible ‘war to end all wars’ and in all conflicts and peacekeeping operations since then.

It’s 95 years since the armistice on 11 November that ended the First World War (1914-18). It is also the 20th anniversary of the reinternment of the Unknown Australian Soldier in the Australian War Memorial’s Hall of Memory.

Today his eulogy, first delivered by Prime Minister Paul Keating in 1993, will be read at the setting of the sun outside the Memorial.

“It is not too much to hope…that this Unknown Australian Soldier might continue to serve his country – he might enshrine a nation’s love of peace and remind us that in the sacrifice of the men and women whose names are recorded here there is faith enough for all of us.”

When you consider the lives lost in war – those who fight in it and those who are caught up in it just because they live there – it makes you wonder about the madness of the human species…

So perhaps the last words should go to Confucius: “Study the past if you would define the future.”


Shearwaters blown away on epic migratory journey

Copyright: Louise Ralph

As we walk along Pottsville beach, it’s shocking to see the pristine sand dotted with dead seabirds. Already the wind has swept a soft layer of sand across their emaciated bodies…

Other beachgoers are curious but keeping their distance. What are they? Have they been poisoned? Is it the dreaded bird flu that’s killed them?

Copyright: Louise RalphI know it’s common for migratory birds to be blown off course or die of exhaustion, but I’ve never seen so many littering the beach. It just feels wrong to see such intense effort end like this.

A closer look reveals these are short-tailed shearwaters, similar or possibly the same as those we saw on a recent trip to Bruny Island in Tasmania.

Every year, these valiant world travellers make marathon migratory journeys from Alaska, Siberia and other distant shores to breed from September to April in colonies along Australia’s southeast coastline.

Along the way, shearwaters ‘raft-up’ at sea to rest and feast on fish and other tasty seafood like krill, squid, plankton, crustaceans and molluscs. But keeping up the carbs for their epic journey is a feat in itself.

By the time they reach Australia’s east coast, often flying in 6,000 kilometre stages, they have lost up to half their body weight and are in need of some serious rest and rejuvenation.

Imagine an 80kg human running 16 million kilometres non-stop, and you have some idea of the distance these birds have travelled compared to their body weight.

Like all migratory creatures, they are driven to continue their journey. And every year, emaciated and too exhausted to feed or take flight again, many are washed up along our beaches.

This year, the start of spring may as well have been the beginning of summer here, with unseasonal hot, dry winds fanning sparks into wildfires in eastern Australia. The shearwaters would have hit those relentless hot winds head on…

It’s sad to see their bodies strewn along the beach. But it’s comforting to know that many of them have already reached their destination and are taking some well-earned R&R before they kick into some serious breeding and baby shearwater rearing…

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Shearwaters near Bruny Island in Tasmania


Fresh eggs, curious cows and free range kids

My writerly co-conspirator Sandra recently took a short break with her husband and two kids aged nine and 12. For something a bit different, they headed to the country instead of the coast…

Taking a break is often harder work than staying home. You want to see this, do that, go there. For our recent four day break we wanted just that – a break. But how do you do that with children? I decided to try a country cottage nestled alongside the Mapleton Falls National Park.

Normally we’d do a beachside unit, but that can be exhausting when you’re the one lugging boogie boards and cleaning sand out of everything. Mapleton Falls Farm Stay sounded like far less work.

The farmhouse had the basics including a fully stocked pod coffee machine, which was a pleasant surprise. For entertainment there wasn’t much more than a television, a stereo and some aging board games.

eggsThere was also the promise of bushwalking, cows, egg laying chickens and a shaded swing in an old tree to keep the kids amused for hours.

As promised the cows were friendly and delighted the kids with their eagerness to be handfed.

The three chickens produced half a dozen warm, white eggs. And the swing was great for pushing the boundaries of daring as well as for contemplative rocking.

The bushwalk on offer was only a very short track, the Wompoo Circuit – enough to keep everyone interested for an easy half hour walk.

When they’d had enough of that there was always a comfy couch and iPods to listen to – or the massage chair, which was another unexpected luxury and a great place to read!

For a family wanting to get away and really relax, Mapleton Falls Farm Stay was a great option. At less than two hours drive from Brisbane, it’s easy to access – and somewhere our city kids can go ‘free range’ for a while.