Category Archives: Travel

Lost in translation…

© Royalty-Free/CorbisOkay, before I start banging on about how utterly gorgeous Brittany is, and how breathtaking Mont-Saint-Michel is, and how gobsmacking St Malo is – clearly I have run out of superlatives – I have to tell you…

I’ve been wondering why the waiters have been looking at me quizzically when I order those double expressos avec du lait sur le côté.

It’s all in the pronunciation – and the secret is in the sneaky accent on the ‘e’ (é). Which subtly changes ‘coat’ into ‘coat-aye’.

So here I am ordering milk ‘on the coast’ (côte) instead of ‘on the side’ (côté). Tch!

Now I understand why my French teacher kept telling us to ‘hit the ending’. Learning by doing…


We will remember them…

“You can manufacture weapons
and you can purchase ammunition,
but you can’t buy valor
and you can’t pull heroes off an assembly line.”

Sergeant John B Ellery, U.S. 1st Infantry Division

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Normandy American Cemetery & Memorial, Omaha Beach

On Saturday, we took an emotional journey along the D-Day beaches in Normandy.

It’s hard to express how truly moving it is to stand on this peaceful stretch of coastline and think about that day – June 6, 1944.

The land is still scarred with zig-zagging trenches, concrete bunkers and other evidence of Hitler’s Atlantic wall.

How close we came to a very different world, and what a sacrifice these thousands of men made to preserve our freedom.

We use the term ‘hero’ so loosely today. These are the real heroes… lest we forget.

Copyright: Louise Ralph

 


From Paris to Port en Bessin

our Paris address…

Au revoir, Paris

On Friday, we said au revoir to Paris with some sadness, but also with a sense of relief that we actually made our way out of the city – in peak-hour traffic (at 10 am…), without a scratch.

Sylvia, our fabulous GPS voice that gently yet insistently guides us, is our new best friend. Gagged (well, bagged) since we left home, she is suddenly wonderfully vocal – and faultlessly directs us out of what is essentially a spaghetti-bowl of roads circumnavigating Paris.

You know those days when technology really lets you down – and winds you up? Today is not one of them.

Bonjour, Port en Bessin

After sticking to the toll roads until Leviers, we convince Sylvia that we really do want to take the narrow, meandering pathway to Normandy. Thanks very much.

After Paris, Normandy’s wide open spaces are a surprise – and the villages along the way are breathtaking. Literally at times, when we squeeze between ancient stone walls and around blind corners.

Sylvia finally leads us into Port en Bessin and to our hotel – which is facing the fishing port or face en port. This fishing village is beyond picturesque, and it’s easy to lose track of time here…

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Port en Bessin, Normandy

We suddenly realise it’s six o’clock – and the sun isn’t even thinking about setting. Time to find the seafood restaurant a local has recommended, while Sylvia has a well-earned rest.


Monumental travel moments…

Notre Dame, Paris (Copyright: Louise Ralph)

Grimacing guardians of Notre Dame

I’ve never really been a big fan of guidebooks, although I’ll admit I  do have a few on the bookshelf back home.

The problem is, when I actually open them and start reading the suggested itineraries, I start having an anxiety attack.

Like about ten minutes ago, when I finally opened our France guidebook…all those churches and museums, art galleries and architectural icons, places to eat, things you must do. Aaaagh.

Don’t get me wrong – they are fantastic to have on hand and really do cover-off on the best things to see, and what to avoid.

It’s just that ticking off the tourist sites has never been a big thing for me. Luckily, EB and I are on the same – um – page.

We like to arrive somewhere, dump our bags and head out the door. We often get lost, but that’s usually when we have the most fun – like when we were hopelessly lost in Venice and desperately in need of a coffee.

A tiny trattoria caught our eye and we pushed open the door. It was brim full of locals, who all stared at us with astonishment.

We soon discovered it was run by two elderly sisters and they hadn’t seen a tourist there in years. They welcomed us like celebrities and proceeded to feed us up to the gills.

Trying to get across the whole ‘vegetarian’ thing required much gesticulating, with the occasional Italian word thrown in. I ended up with half a roast chicken and a glass of vino. It was definitely a ‘Mr Bean’ moment, with EB gobbling bits of it when no-one was looking. Clearly my ‘interpretive dance’ communication method was a monumental failure…

Then there was the impromptu game of cricket with the sherpas on the Annapurna trail in Nepal – thanks to pair of socks balled-up in duct tape, a plank for a bat, and lots of enthusiasm.

Later, our tour group celebrated and danced into the night with the sherpas, fuelled with very watery whisky and nepalese beer, and to the rhythm of a single drum. Even the local villagers turned up to join in.

These are the moments we remember, long after the monuments are just travel snaps in an album.

Roman Krznaric reminds us of the history of travel in his article Capturing life, not landmarks (Psychologies, July 2012) and its influence on how we travel today, guidebook in hand:

“Few of us realise that our holiday itineraries were set by aristocratic travellers more than 300 years ago. We are the unsuspecting inheritors of the Grand Tour tradition of the eighteenth century, when upper-class gents – and the occasional lady – embarked on a high-culture European tour of renowned artworks, monuments and churches, to complete their classical educations.”

So yes, we’ll tick off some of those iconic places, but mostly we’ll hang out on the streets, or let our curiosity take us where it will.

Let’s face it, any monuments we miss aren’t going anywhere. And it’s a good excuse to come back again…


Eat, sleep, play… in Paris

St-Germain des Pres From the moment EB and I stepped out of our quaint, oh-so-Paris apartment on the Ile Saint-Louis this morning, I knew I was ‘home’.

It just felt like the right fit for me in every way, and I immediately felt myself relaxing.

I love the way women dress here – relaxed, understated and not a nose-bleed-height heel in sight. Except on tourists who are willing to risk their ankles on the uneven cobblestones.

And in spite of the bad wrap Parisians often get, we’ve found them friendly and helpful. They don’t gush and they don’t try to impress, but they seem comfortable in their own skin and I like that.

Best of all, after years of having conniptions over conjugations, I’m finally speaking French without hyperventilating… ordering breakfast, asking a man on the street for directions (and even understanding the answer!), and buying supplies at the marché.

Later, exploring the deliciously charming streets of St-Germain de Prés and nearby Left Bank neighbourhoods, I could very well have been in heaven.

At the end of our first day in Paris, EB has already walked my legs off… and hopefully the day’s indulgences.

I suspect tomorrow will involve, among other things, not taking the lift up the Eiffel Tower. As if 88 stairs up to our apartment isn’t enough already. Not that we’ve counted.


Shape-shifting, EB style.

EB in Hong KongWhen EB was in Italy, he looked kind-of Italian. Even when we were wandering through a dodgy part of Florence around midnight, the gangsta-esque locals would nod at us as we passed.

In Asian countries, he shifts again and manages to blend into the surroundings. Even walking through South Bank in Brisbane, a young Aboriginal man passes and calls him brother, acknowledging him like he’s a respected Elder.

Put him with kiwis or islanders and the ‘bro’ chat is flowing thick and fast. Then he’ll be at a wine tasting somewhere and he transforms into an arty, vino-savvy bro (without the nauseating arrogance!)

Some people are just at home in the world. EB is one of them.

And I get to travel with my own shape-shifting superhero. Bonus.


The count down begins…

Only a week and a bit before Frankly (aka the Energiser Bunny or EB) and moi take off for our French adventure. Can’t wait to shake off the busy-ness, take a deep breath and bolt…

Did I mention I hate packing? Grrr. I was obviously traumatised as a child, when my mum and dad went psycho at each other before every camping trip. Mum always wanted to take the kitchen sink, apparently.

In those days (ancient as I am), cars didn’t have seatbelts or airbags. But mum made up for it. Us kids had so much stuff jammed around us, they’d have had to dig us out if we’d ever had
an accident.

So. Packing. Tell me it gets better with practice…