Tag Archives: travel

Paddling the Noosa River

On the day the world was ‘officially’ supposed to end, EB and I took off up the Noosa River on Australia’s Sunshine Coast for some paddling.

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Past paddling days along the upper reaches of the Noosa River

There’s nothing like camping and paddling along a gorgeous river, far from the silly-season crowds, to bring back a little perspective. That was the plan, anyway.

Our intention was to camp at Harry’s Hut on Noosa River’s upper reaches, which is only accessible by 4WD or on  foot. But height became our undoing.

We’ve been here many times, but this was the first time we’d negotiated the rough track in the Douglas Albert – and with our double kayak on top. We laughed at the distinct possibility that we’d almost get there, then not be able to get under or around a thick low-hanging branch.

Try a fallen tree, propped in the fork of a tree on the opposite side of the road, just low enough to shave the roof of our motorhome (and the kayak with it).

With shallow gullies either side and dusk settling around us, we had no choice but to shrug, do a 25-point turn (okay, slight exaggeration) and head back to the more accessible Boreen Point camping area, on the edge Lake Cootharaba.

We found some privacy beside a paperbark forest, far enough from the camping hordes settled in for the long holidays.

Copyright: Louise RalphWaking to a chorus of crickets the next morning, we set off to paddle across the lake towards the lower reaches of the Noosa River – and into a haze of smoke from bushfires on both river banks.

Along the sheltered edge of the lake, a sting ray nestled on the sandy bottom, its white-spotted brown body just visible.

Flashes of silver surrounded us as fish leapt out of the water. Now if we’d been fisher-folks…

Copyright: Louise RalphThe egrets we usually see here had evacuated, but a brahminy kite circled above us and darters extended their snake-like necks from safe perches to watch us passing.

The world didn’t end, and Christmas is upon us. Time to eat, drink, be merry – and plan our next trip or three.

Oh and to see if Santa will deliver a light-weight, waterproof, smashproof camera for our paddling, hiking and cycling adventures.

Cheers reindeers, and happy travels,

Lou and EB

Copyright: Louise Ralph


A week in… Melbourne

Copyright: Louise Ralph

…the old boat builders yard

On Friday, we literally blew into Melbourne for a week, breathing a collective sigh after our plane sidled, bucked and finally settled onto the tarmac.

After Brisbane’s humidity and heat, we immediately felt the chill bite into our skin. Apparently, the weather’s been a bit up and down lately (like our plane).

In spite of the ‘four seasons in one day’ weather, there’s a lot to love about Melbourne.

We meet up with friends and head to the so-very-French South Melbourne Markets. It’s foodie heaven.

We gather the makings of lunch – a quiche and baguette from the French bakery, a delicious chèvre (from French goats of course), olives, strawberries, and some French bubbles.

Basking in the sun in their back garden, we could be back in Bourgogne still making those holiday resolutions…

On Sunday, EB and I wander (EB’s version is power wandering) along the south bank of the Yarra River, discovering the new South Walk that meanders past the old boat builder’s yard and a bunch of new cafes and restaurants.

On Tuesday, I’m off to the zoo on  a field trip for the Interpretation Australia conference I’m attending (hard to take, I know).

I get to play with friends at the Melbourne Zoo’s Growing Wild exhibition.

It’s a fantastic new interactive play centre where kids can connect with nature as they play and explore the homes and behaviours of meerkats, tortoises and bush turkeys. Clearly, the kids-at-heart have buckets of fun too!

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Fun for kids – and tortoise mamas

Finding tortoise eggs in the sandpit at Melbourne Zoo’s Growing Wild exhibition.

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Meerkat Manor – on patrol or just hanging around, you could watch these cute critters all day.

Back to reality, and there’s those fabulous Melbourne laneways to explore, with their street art, cafes and eateries, and tiny but fascinating boutiques.

And then there are the wine regions…

A short drive or train ride from the Melbourne CBD is the Mornington Peninsula. It’s the place to be, as our friends and family who live there keep reminding us. Gorgeous beaches, boutique wineries, a national park, and more – okay, we’re convinced.

Meanwhile, the Yarra Valley is just an hour from the city and captured our hearts a decade ago.

With its stunning wines, countryside, restaurants and villages, and the fabulous Healesville Sanctuary, it’s a journey you have to take if you’re ever in Melbourne.

Next time we come, and it won’t be long, we’re bringing our new Bromptons with us to cycle along the Yarra River. More about our new toys some other sixty seconds… right now, it’s back to Brisbane for us. Ciao!

Melbourne’s street art


Getting into the Singapore swing…

Copyright: Louise Ralph

We’ve been hanging out in Singapore for the past few days. EB finds the humidity energizing. Moi? I’m suffering from serious France-lag.

Even my mobile kept French time for two days. Perhaps that’s why they call it a smart phone.

As always, we hit the streets on day one – stepping out into 33-degree heat, complete with 90 percent humidity. Joy.

One local just laughs at us and shakes his head. “Nobody walk in Singapore. Everyone take bus or taxi,” he says.

I wish. I already feel like I’ve run a marathon. Unfortunately, I look like it too. Wringing wet and half dead.

Which makes it hard to blend in along Orchard Road, Singapore’s posh shop-til-you-drop strip. The only person about to drop is me – and I haven’t even started shopping.

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Flood levels in Singapore get that high?
No, it’s just Marina Bay Sands, a humble casino resort…

But what do the locals think of their city? “Singapore is fine city,” one lady says.

This isn’t a quirk of language. She’s not the first – or the last – to tell us about how highly regulated life is in Singapore.

There are fines for littering, fines for not emptying the overflow from pot-plant trays, fines and loss of taxi-licenses for drivers ripping people off, fines and jail terms for handbag snatching and other petty crime, a complicated car-ownership permit system, and more. You can even get the cane here, and not just at school.

The pot-plant thing? That’s about making sure mosquitoes can’t breed. It’s part of a vigilant program to stop dengue fever (check out the NEA ad).

All these strict laws may be annoying to live with, but they’re designed to create a litter and crime-free tropical city that’s healthy and safe for tourists and residents, with maximum green spaces and minimum pollution – especially car emissions.

And it works. It’s the safest, cleanest, most relaxing Asian city we’ve been in so far.

It’s also one the most environmentally-responsible and innovative cities in the world.

For us, it’s been a pleasant surprise and we’ve had a great time exploring the city.

Not always on foot. EB relented and we did eventually take taxis and buses – sometimes.

Coming soon! Some of our favourite places in Singapore. Until then, here’s a trip down memory lane – by bike.

This reminds me of how I felt on the last downhill run into Tournus. Nice.

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Memories of cycling in Burgundy – a bronze in Singapore’s Botanical Gardens


Au revoir, merci France

Copyright: Louise RalphWhen we first arrived in France, I had no idea what to expect – just that I’d wanted to come here for a very long time.

I also knew the six weeks would be gone in a blink… and it has.

There have been challenges, bien sur.

Like trying to communicate with our limited grasp of the language, adjusting to those rich late-night dinners, and finding our way around France with the ever-petulant Sylvia the GPS and those sometimes-dodgy cycling directions…

But the one facing us now, after our quick stopover in Singapore, is much more scary.

Going home and stepping back into… [cue spooky music] …the Stress Zone.

We know the moment our feet get under the desk, our life will be frantic. But does it have to be?

Our quest – which may take superhuman powers – is to hold onto a little of that fabulous French attitude to life.

Like working to live, not the other way around. And taking timeout – because you don’t always have to be open, or available 24/7, or busting your way through the in-tray.

Meanwhile, we have some time to wander the streets of Tournus before our fast train to the airport. Mais oui, the streets are all but deserted. Only the boulangerie and one bar-cafe in the centre ville is openIt’s Monday, after all.

And even if that doesn’t always suit us tourists, it works for the French. And that’s the point, really.

So we’ve popped some of that approach into our bags. Now we’ve just gotta get it through customs…and home.

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Serenity, French-style, in Tournus…

Au revoir, France. A bientot.


Crossing the border into Brittany…

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Mont Saint Michel’s maritime character will soon be restored…

Mont Saint Michel has been at the top of my bucket list for a long time – and it doesn’t disappoint.

From that first moment when it emerged from the haze above acres of open fields, both EB and I were captivated.

As we soon discovered, there’s a major restoration project underway to return the island feel to Mont Saint Michel – including replacing the causeway with a bridge so the water can circulate and removing around 1.3 million cubic metres of silt (i.e. ****loads) that’s built up over the years.

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Archangel Saint Michael towers 560 feet above the bay…

Even with extensive work going on around it, and restoration on the Mont itself, it’s incredibly impressive.

And the stairs… there are a lot. Once we got to the top, EB found a reason to go back down again (of course).

Five minutes later, we just had to go back up because (apparently) the cathedral was open. It wasn’t, so we went down again for coffee. And he thinks I don’t know what he’s up to. Ha!

Eventually, we went back up again to go through the cathedral – which is a bit like one of those dreams where you keep opening doors in your house and finding more and more rooms.

Except these are huge, crafted from hand-hewn rock, perfectly melded with the rocky islet they rest on – and built at a time before cranes and other modern machinery. Phew.

From cathedral to a resort…

Copyright: Louise Ralph

Locals collecting their evening meal at Dinard…

On the way back to our hotel in the walled-city of Saint-Malo, we took a detour to the resort village of Dinard.

It’s another impressive ‘village’, this time on an island. The stone houses along the shoreline are huge and posh, but the amazing moment for us came when the locals turned out in force, armed with buckets and long pronged-metal spikes.

They were on a mission to harvest the goodies from the seafood garden revealed at low tide – there for the taking, if you know what you’re doing.

They certainly did, poking under rocks, finding exactly the right place in the sand to dig, picking the choicest fruits de mer

For some, this was a serious exercise, but for most I suspect collecting their seafood feast was as much about dinner as about hanging out with friends. Ah, France… what’s not to like?


Strolling the Louvre

Ce n’est pas la Joconde…

It’s no wonder the Mona Lisa (La Joconde) has that enigmatic smile. The madness she’s seen…

Tourists jostle to get close enough to her to get a snap. Others work their way to the front row and immediately turn their back on her.

Their quest is to be photographed with her. They check their friend’s photography efforts (gotta love digital), nod and walk away…

I pause for a moment to look into those serene yet knowing eyes.

I have someone’s elbow in my ear… and is that a camera almost resting on my head? The price of being short I guess.

Mais non, ce n’est pas la Joconde soit. C’est EB…

The magnetic Mona Lisa is unperturbed. Long after the snaps feature in slideshows and photo albums, long after the memories have grown tired, she will be here. Ever the celebrity.

Down the hall, a young woman holding a lime green-covered iPad is walking towards us – well, almost over us.

She is spinning slowly, taking in the artwork through the screen.

Every now and then she peeps out from behind it.

I guess there are ways and ways to see the Louvre…


Monumental travel moments…

Notre Dame, Paris (Copyright: Louise Ralph)

Grimacing guardians of Notre Dame

I’ve never really been a big fan of guidebooks, although I’ll admit I  do have a few on the bookshelf back home.

The problem is, when I actually open them and start reading the suggested itineraries, I start having an anxiety attack.

Like about ten minutes ago, when I finally opened our France guidebook…all those churches and museums, art galleries and architectural icons, places to eat, things you must do. Aaaagh.

Don’t get me wrong – they are fantastic to have on hand and really do cover-off on the best things to see, and what to avoid.

It’s just that ticking off the tourist sites has never been a big thing for me. Luckily, EB and I are on the same – um – page.

We like to arrive somewhere, dump our bags and head out the door. We often get lost, but that’s usually when we have the most fun – like when we were hopelessly lost in Venice and desperately in need of a coffee.

A tiny trattoria caught our eye and we pushed open the door. It was brim full of locals, who all stared at us with astonishment.

We soon discovered it was run by two elderly sisters and they hadn’t seen a tourist there in years. They welcomed us like celebrities and proceeded to feed us up to the gills.

Trying to get across the whole ‘vegetarian’ thing required much gesticulating, with the occasional Italian word thrown in. I ended up with half a roast chicken and a glass of vino. It was definitely a ‘Mr Bean’ moment, with EB gobbling bits of it when no-one was looking. Clearly my ‘interpretive dance’ communication method was a monumental failure…

Then there was the impromptu game of cricket with the sherpas on the Annapurna trail in Nepal – thanks to pair of socks balled-up in duct tape, a plank for a bat, and lots of enthusiasm.

Later, our tour group celebrated and danced into the night with the sherpas, fuelled with very watery whisky and nepalese beer, and to the rhythm of a single drum. Even the local villagers turned up to join in.

These are the moments we remember, long after the monuments are just travel snaps in an album.

Roman Krznaric reminds us of the history of travel in his article Capturing life, not landmarks (Psychologies, July 2012) and its influence on how we travel today, guidebook in hand:

“Few of us realise that our holiday itineraries were set by aristocratic travellers more than 300 years ago. We are the unsuspecting inheritors of the Grand Tour tradition of the eighteenth century, when upper-class gents – and the occasional lady – embarked on a high-culture European tour of renowned artworks, monuments and churches, to complete their classical educations.”

So yes, we’ll tick off some of those iconic places, but mostly we’ll hang out on the streets, or let our curiosity take us where it will.

Let’s face it, any monuments we miss aren’t going anywhere. And it’s a good excuse to come back again…